More about Talkeetna...August 22, 2013 - morning of August 23, 2013.

Talkeetna is a mixed bag of complete derelict living to rustic cultural activities.  The local arts council is very busy with art, music, drama activities all year.  Including later today, we are going to a concert in the park from 5 pm - 7 pm.  Photos to come on this tomorrow.

There are so many abandoned vehicles it is impossible to count.  These are actually quite a cute pair right in the heart of the town of Talkeetna

This white van is parked on the side of the road.  Some times the side door is open, sometimes it is closed.  Once I saw the feet of someone (thing) hanging out of it.  No one seems to mind that this "home" is parked in Talkeetna.  It appears to be very true about coming to Alaska, if you want to be what you want to be, you are allowed to be! 

But, the main street of the town has lovely, flowered, artistic cabins which house art and tourist shops.

The Talkeetna Roadhouse is where we ate breakfast this morning.   I had the famous sourdough pancake (1 which hung over the plate).  The sourdough starter used today was "started" in 1903!  The pancake was amazing.  Their selection of pastries and such are simply divine!   I believe a HUGE sticky bun is in our future.  This is the location where all the hikers of Denali hang out.  This is how Ira and I knew about it.

This bar (West Rib Pub and Grille) was featured on The Travel Channel's Man vs. Food show for their "Seward's Folly" Burger.  This has over 5 lbs of meats and cheeses!  No, we didn't have it!

This is where Ira and I have booked our fly trip to Mt. McKinley (Denai).

Here is a grass air strip right in the village of Talkeetna

This is a common sight on all the waterways here.  Float planes parked, at the ready for good weather and tourists!

We visited the Denali Mountain museum and listened to a wonderful discussion about the mountain and the climbing aspects of it.  It is very nice to hear that Mt. McKinley (or called Denali by Alaskans) is regulated very carefully, much like Baxter State Park in Maine.  Climbers are carefully screened, they participate in training and then a review by the rangers to make sure they are ready and well-equipped for the climb.  You cannot even leave human waste behind as you are given a sealed container to haul out your waste.  No garbage can be left behind.  You must register when you go and register when you return.  If you do NOT register out on the day you specified you would return, they will send out a search party looking for you.  There are rangers at various locations on this 20,000 foot massive mountain! 

We learned other Alaskan things, too, such as:

• There are no snakes
• Alaskan spiders have 6 legs not 8
• There are no ticks
• After 11,000 in the mountains, there are no animals

The ranger was a great speaker and very informative.  He has only lived in Alaska for 4 years and says his zip code will never be anything other than Alaskan.

What would a trip to Talkeetna be, without a trip to the cemetery?   Actually, it was a recommendation to us by locals because of the history, and especially because of the Denali hikers memorial.  So, why not.

Here is one hiker memorial.  Notice the totem pole with 2 hikers climbing.

List of hikers who died by year.

Example of hiker memorial; two ice axes crossed.

This cemetery has a couple of Spirit Houses in it.  Spirit Houses were created when Russian met Native Alaskans culture.  When Alaskans turned Russian Orthodoxy around 1836, they were not allowed to cremate any longer.  Cremation was believed to set the spirits free to make their final journey.    The Spirit Houses were built for spirits to go, so they would not bother the living.  It was believed to take up to 40 days for the spirits to make their final journey after death.

Donald Sheldon rests in this cemetery.  Sheldon is a very famous Alaskan bush pilot who perfected the art of glacier landings.  Sheldon teamed up with a famous New England photographer and surveyor (Bradley Washburn) to survey Alaska.  Ira and I are very familiar with Bradley Washburn as he was key to recording the White Mountain areas of NH.  We have also viewed many, many of his spectacular aerial photographs of NE and Alaska. (Chris, Ira has a book about Sheldon if you want to read it!!!).

So, what are some of the random things we have learned about this area?  For one, the above photo shows a 4-wheeler trail.  These trails travel parallel to all the roads.  In the winter, they are for snowmachines (sleds).  4-wheelers are a common method of travel here, and they can be driven downtown, too.  You see them outside of the pubs and restaurants.  Cool way to travel and kids drive them too.  Rather neat!

From our interactions with many Alaskans at this point, I can tell you they are soft spoken people.  They have been incredibly helpful, kind; actually sweet.  And, these are not just service people we are talking about.  Because of the time we have spent locally, we have talked to locals in Achorage, Seward, Talkeetna and parts in between.   They are such nice, smiling people.   Perhaps when you live in an area where there are so few people and resources, you need to be nice to people because you never know when you will need them!  Here in Talkeetna, we are about 70 miles from Wasilla, which is the closest somewhat large community to have a good sized grocery store.  Anchorage, is really the best bet for anything you would want and that is 113 miles away.   You probably learn to rely on locals so you better be nice!  They truly have been wonderful people.

I've heard about the pace in Hawaii...there is the mainland's time and then there is "Hawaii" time.  I feel it is the same here.  People do not feel in such a rush and even drivers do not drive fast (we fit right in!!!).   When a store's sign says they are open at 10 - some say 10"ish" because who knows if it really will open at 10.   People have patience here and just accept the behavior of others. 

Today the weather began to break and we are praying it continues.  This morning we went to Talkeenta Air Taxi to book The Denali Grand Tour flight for tomorrow afternoon (hoping to give the weather time to clear out).  This flight will take us right up to and around Denali and that mountainous area.  Wow, right?  This was one of the main things we wanted to do and we hope we are able to.  Hopefully the photos will be worth sharing.   It's been really rainy here - enough so there are high-water warnings around - and we hoping our patience has paid off and things will work out.  The weather looks like the next few days will be okay.  That will include our time that we travel up to Denali National Park.  Now, wouldn't that be wonderful!!!  Fingers crossed, please.

Watch for more tomorrow!  Thanks for reading this.

What do you do in Talkeetna when it rains and rains? Well.... August 21, 2013

Yes, it has continued to rain here in Alaska - and I mean rain!  Did you know that August is Alaska's rainy season?  Well, we didn't until we came and the locals seem to just accept the amount of rain we are getting.  So, what does one do?

We walked through all the gift shops in Talkeetna yesterday!  Most are your usual "Made in China" type shops, but there are some nice artisans products in a couple.

Cute pizza place with the MOST colorful outside seating area.  Maybe we will get to see it later this week with people there and sun???

We did eat lunch out, at the Wildflower Cafe,  and it was very nice.    Ira has fresh salmon and I had fresh halibut salad.  Yummy!

While in the "village" of Talkeetna, we saw that the paved street ends with dirt (well, kind of mud) and our guess was that it went to the huge river that passed by Talkeenta (which I read that Talkeenta meets the joining of 3 rivers, and all three join to become the Susitna River).  Well, the mud did take us to the river which was very scarey, actually, due to the amount of rain we have had.  We really had to dodge a number of water flows, and puddles even to get to the river.  Wow...it was unsettling.  these are not like the rivers we have in Vermont (with the exception of during Irene's time).

These cannot express the rate of flow of the water.  Logs (trees) were flowing down the river at a shocking rate!  Scarey.

We later took a drive just to check out locations and get out of our cabin (which is lovely).

 Here is something that has my curiosity sparked.  Along the main road, no individual home displays mail boxes, but each mile or so, you see this!  These are normally at the end of very long roads which lead out into the never, never land.  So, I have to guess that mailboxes are grouped so the mail carrier gets to unload less frequently.  Just a guess.   With the remoteness here, were wondered how often people even get to their mailboxes in the winter. 

So this is this morning's view...and out there is supposed to be a breathtaking view of the Denali range.  We have read, that starting tomorrow the weather should improve and PERHAPS we will even get a few good days coming up.  That would be fantastic.  Regardless, we are together in ALASKA! 

Talkeetna August 20, 2013

We set out for Talkeetna on a wet, Seward morning.  The trip wasn't a washout, but it did dribble much as the day.

Around Moose Pass, an hour north of Seward

Marsh swamps near Wasilla and Palmer, Alaska.

The trip north of Anchorage was not all that attractive.  I thought the northern route may be as spectacular as the drive the Seward, however that was not the case.  The mountains stayed with us some of the way, but then we sank down to the valley floor leading to Talkeena.  The land flattened out and became very marshy as a result of being at the upper-end of Turnagan Arm.  This area houses an immense bird refuge!  We did see quite a number of eagles on the way up.  As used to this magnificent bird as we are, they are still magnificent.  

We passed through the Wasilla area on Route 3 and that was not much to write home about.   But there are a lot of rivers in the area.  In fact, the town of Talkeetna is at the corner of 3 large rivers:  Chulitna, Susitna and Talkeetna Rivers.  They are marvelously turquoise in color.

Now, about Talkeetna - very hard to explain unless you see it.  Talkeetna is on the National Register of Historic Places and was an early-1900 old mining town.  In fact, most of the buildings, which have been turned into other things such as gift shops, remain from the days of mining.

Nagley's General store - around since about 1915!

Talkeetna is home to many talented artisans.  As we have spoken to many local Alaskans, artisans say they work all winter producing their products, just to sell all summer to tourists.  I overheard an artisan explaining to a customer that they have a "take back Talkeetna" party at the end of the season when the tourists go home.  Talkeetna is home to about 800 permanent residents.

This morning (August 21) we listened to a local radio show (community discussions and topics on the radio).  What was really cool, as we have only heard about such things, but this station puts out "echos" which are messages the locals send to on another as there is little cell coverage and many people don't have phones.  Here are some examples of what I heard this morning:

• Would the person who took my gas can out of the back of my truck at the Talkeetna river dock, return it to that spot, preferably full of gas, by this weekend.  No questions asked.
• Marge, not sure we can make it this weekend because it's been raining so heavy.
• Tell, "x" we are coming this weekend, so get the place ready.

This is kind of like our local "Front Porch Forum" but over the radio.  I will listen in again because it was really quite cool.

Now I must introduce you to the major of Talkeenta- Mayor Stubbs!!!  Yes, as you can see from this link, it's true.

Mayor Stubbs has the run of Talkeenta and on this day, was in a gift store on the couch!  Major Stubbs was actually elected by write in about 16 years go.  This Major was happy to be petted, but didn't even budge when I pet him.  Maybe he's stuffed?  No, he was breathing.

This morning as I was ready to pour my coffee, we saw a mother and baby moose on the front lawn of our cabin.

Baby Moose with mouth full of flowers.

Mother Moose.  She was about 15 feet away.

They didn't stay but a moment and walked out beside the van we have rented.  We held our breath because we thought they were doing to take off the mirror.  Now Mommy's back (not her head, but her back) was even with the roof of the van!  Yup, they raise them big here.  The baby's head was a bit higher than the roof of the van.  No way were we going to get between those two!

Dining area at our cabins.

There is supposed to be a view of Denali from here - at least all the photos around here show it.

Our cabin, with Denali ALMOST out.

Today is a very bleak and cool day in Talkeetna.  This is Alaska!  the weather says it will be like this until maybe Saturday - we can only hope!  We are lucky to have a lovely cabin that is warm.  Though we've heard the weather is spectacular in Vermont (good for you all there!!!) we are in Alaska which is still really cool.  That being said, if the rain Gods would lay off for a while, we'd be very, very happy with that, too. 

We stopped in to Barnes and Noble in Anchorage to buy a couple more books, because we heard the weather was going to be poor.    So how about a book review?  The Snow Child by Eowyn Ivey - Eowyn is from Palmer and I picked up this book.  It was her first novel and a Pulitzer Prize Finalist.  This book was based on a fairy tale and captivated me.  Perhaps it did because I was picking up bits and pieces about Alaskan life along our little adventure, and could better relate to the characters and environment as it was written about Alaskan living in the early 1900s.  I found the characters were well developed, which is always (for me) important in a good book.  The ending may not have been what a lot of readers would have like, but in my view, it ended the way it should.  I enjoyed it and felt it would be a great book-club read providing a lot of good discussion.  I'm bringing it home so you are all welcome to borrow it.

Ira says he has read 4 books so far.  He has picked up a couple of books about Alaska, too.  The Floor of Heaven about the Yukon Gold Rush and connection to the wild, wild west.  And another book was Pilgrim's Wilderness about a family that moved into national forest land and their battle with the national forest.

Heading for Talkeetna now to listend to ranger program about Denali and later we are going to a play by the local arts council.  Indoor activities! And, we are going to try to spot more wildlife.  Later!

A day in Seward, Alaska - August 19, 2013

Last evening we at at Ray's and this was our view from our table!

She large ship in the back we watched pull out of the harbor and set sail, which was about 8 PM.

But, today, August 19th, we hung around Seward.  Mostly because the day did promise great weather (which as the locals say is completely normal - especially during rainy season) and because it is our last day here in Seward.

One thing really cool about Seward is their appreciation for art.  In particular, their mural art is astounding!  Everywhere are large pieces of art for everyone to share.  They even have a Mural Society and the art is everywhere and it is beautiful. 

So, mid-morning we took off for the Alaskan Sea Life Center here in Seward.   With all the coast space in Alaska we were surprised to know there was only one rehabilitation center - here.

The center if right on Resurrection Bay and sits embraced by the huge mountains on either side of Seward.  The building is huge and beautiful and full of wonderful sea life.  Here are only some of what we saw.

Puffin

Prawns

Wolf Eel

Sea Lions

Harbor Seals

We had a great time as the center and read through the aquatic history of this glorious state.  I had forgotten how close we were to Russia from here.  Oh wait, I think I can see it from our deck!!!!!  Sorry, had to say that!

We grabbed a nice lunch in a cafe downtown (downtown is not how it sounds here in Seward).  Seward is a small community with all nice parallel streets where the residential area mixes with the "downtown."  Downtown is a few stores in the central part of town, catering mostly to tourists.  Then again a smattering of them around the harbor area.  Most homes here are 1 story, very small homes.  Our guess was due to heating in the winter.  There are few homes here that I would classify as really "nice" as most appear to be more functional than decorative.

Having been purchasing groceries over the past week, I can't image how people afford food!  That is probably one reason why so many people live off the natural resources, our of necessity.  Most people here fish and or hunt and I think I understand why.  Prices are very, very high here.

Our last day in Seward has come.  Tomorrow morning, we drive up past Anchorage,  beyond Palmer and Wasilla, onto Talkeetna.  We pull away from the coast and head inland.  We'll see what that is all about!  Pray for some good weather because as of right now, it looks pretty bad!!!!  Maybe we will go rafting so it wouldn't matter how wet we get!!!!  We'll enjoy it anyway. 

A Visit to Lowell Point from Seward - August 18, 2013

Hello,
Before we start August 18th, we'd like to share the end of the day on August 17th.  This was the later afternoon view from our accommodations in Seward.

As you can see, it is a left over, mountain glacier we look at from our front window.  Wow, right?

So the morning of August 18, started rainless, but it was coming.  Before it rained, we wanted to take a trip to Lowell Point.  Lowell Point is the very last human place at the point of the east side of the Kenai Peninsula.   I say human because there is still much more nature, but no buildings or roads.  There is a hiking trail and some rustic national park cabins you can get to by boat or plane, but in essence, Lowell Point is the end.  It is only a couple of miles from Seward, south.  It is a really narrow dirt road and, quite obviously, has suffered from many avalanches or Resurrection Bay destruction.  There are so many repair jobs, it is full of pot holes, huge boulders lay almost in the middle of the road by signs that say "Watch for Falling Rocks" - not boulders.

Narrow and steep, the Lowell Pt. Rd., is often cut off from Seward in the winter and spring due to avalanches.

There were waterfalls that poured down from the mountain that once nicely went under the road, but repairs were being made where it pummeled the road to erase where it once was.  The road had to sidestep the waterfalls and it appears the repairs are ongoing.  Sheer ledge overhung the road.

However, the bay was lovely on the other side of the road.  You almost felt as though you were on the water.  And if you were not careful, you could be.

At the end of Lowell Pt. are a few rustic cabins, buildings and some casual camping sights.  Most of these are packed together to get as many people as possible in that small land space.  For example, there was one row of campers next to the bay that you just back your camper up as far as you can and then another one beside that, and another one beside that, etc.  The views were spectacular of the mountain ranges across the bay.  At one time, we had tried to get a place to rent down here on Lowell Pt. for the week and we are glad that didn't pan out.

  This would be the view from your campers if you were camping on the point.










There was an outfitter company there where you could rent sea kayaks.  Here the outfitter appeared to be taking a very large group of people out for a bay paddle.








What really made this little trip so special was the eagle.  Since we have been in Alaska, we have seen many eagles.  But this guy let us get quite close and take some cool photos.

Finally, he got sick of the photo shoot and flew away.

Later, we walked along Waterfront Park here at Seward.  Waterfront Park has a nice walk path, and it also accommodates a huge number of campers on the bay.  This is a city-run park and campers pay the city for camping.  Some of the camping sites have no services while others have water and power.  You pay accordingly.  It is a great way to get close to the bay and fish.  As you can imagine, with the cost of everything being so high in Alaska, fishing is a great way to supplement your food supply.  Even our eagle friend knows that!  Fishing is huge here in Seward.  Ira read a want add for fish processing laborers in Seward for $100 - $150 per day - just show up!  My, we were so tempted. 

Once the rains started, we figured it was time to do laundry!  Thank goodness for rainy periods, right.  So we found this really cool laundromat.  Sip and Spin is a quirky little place which not only houses the cleanest laundromat I have ever seen (and perhaps the most expensive at $3.50 for wash and $3.50 for dry) but it had a delightful eatery, cafe, too.  The menu was limited, but had a wonderful selection - to our liking.  We sipped on specialty coffee and tea while we read a book and did our laundry.  Because of the town being such a tourist haven, lots of tourists were doing laundry but the environment was friendly and casual.  Cute little find.  I actually think it is brilliant to combine these two businesses!  It worked.

The afternoon is a quiet one due to the rain (whew - I need a down day!), but tonight we have decided to go to Rays at the Waterfront for dinner.  I found this place when doing our original research of Seward and wanted to have a table overlooking the bay.  Now, tonight it won't be as lovely overlooking the bay as it could be, but it will be fine!  We look forward to it.

One more day in Seward and we head for Talkeetna on Tuesday!  Another adventure.  Wahoo!